Bratislava, capital of Slovakia

Bratislava is a small historical city, growing capably (if sometimes slowly) into its new role of capital city of a new European Union member. Its communist past dominates its large-scale appearance, but at its core is a reemerging sparkler of history, culture, business and recreation.

Inexpensive by comparison to western Europe, small enough to manage on a short visit, with charm enough for a longer one, Slovakia’s capital offers a variety of activities to travelers with any goal.

Historic old town

If you have a half day in Bratislava, concentrate on the historic old town. It’s easy to find, downhill from the hill-top dominating medieval castle, and past the tall spire of St. Martin’s Cathedral. The maze of cobblestone streets are mostly limited to pedestrians. Shade trees and fountains decorate small parks, and you have an abundant choice of cafes and restaurants, with outdoor seating in appropriate seasons and places.

Museum-lovers will find a limited but respectable variety, and shoppers can choose from a mix of international and local shops, aesthetes have many galleries to explore – but there is much to enjoy simply by walking around. Churches, town walls and palaces pay tribute to the centuries of history. Thematic and humorous bronze statues, and a laser light show on summer evenings, are more modern additions. When you’re tired and ready to relax, you can move to the Danube and just watch the great river flow.

Families enjoy the castle, and get even more from the spectacular half-ruined castle at Devin (a ten-minute drive up the Danube). Devin Castle features a variety of attractions, from historical displays of medieval combat to pony rides and other carnival-quality distraction. Another high point for kids is the Bibiana children’s museum, adjacent to St. Martin’s cathedral in the old town.

Some of the places visitors most like to see in Bratislava:

• St. Martin's Cathedral
• Bratislava Castle
• St. Elizabeth's Church, better known as "the Blue Church"
• Slovak National Gallery
• Bibiana Children's Museum
• Zoo and Dino Park
• Botanical Garden
• Theatre and opera
• Classical music
• City Gallery of Bratislava

The Slovak National Museum, based in Bratislava, operates a number of museums and other institutions, including the following (generally housed separately):

• Museum of Natural History
• Museum of Archaeology
• Museum of History
• Museum of Ethnography
• Museum of Music
• Museum of Puppetry and Toys
• Museum of Jewish Culture
• Museuems dedicated to various ethnic groups in Slovakia, including Germans, Hungarians, Ukranians and Ruthenians

Their website is available only in Slovak, but includes much useful information about hours and current exhibitions.
www.snm.sk

Shopping:

• the historic old town combines the most expensive international boutiques with tourist-oriented souvenir shops, and numerous cafes and restaurants
• three shopping malls have opened in the last several years, with a fourth under construction; these combine high-ticket stores with mid-market bargains
• Obchodna ulica, as well as a number of shopping centres and stores more on the edges of town, is where many Slovaks do most of their shopping

Outdoors around Bratislava

Parks and playgrounds are everywhere, but only a few of them are attractive enough to be destinations. Among the best are:

• the lawn of Medicka zahrada, complete with a popular children's playground (near the main bus station)
• the semi-wooded Sad Janka Krala, with paved paths for small children on bikes or skates, also has a good playground (just across the Danube from the old town and National Gallery)
• the entrance to an extensive forest at Zelezna studienka (near the major bus intersection at Patronka) has meadows and small playgrounds.

Hiking trails are highly accessible within the city limits, even by public transport. One good entry point is Zelezna studienka mentioned above. Another is Koliba (see below).

Koliba is the forested hilltop that dominates the city. It is not reachable by public transportation, but a trolley-bus will take you much of the way up. A paved road to the top is car-accessible. Koliba is a year-round destination, combining a number features, including many family-friendly ones. For example:

• a choice of several restaurants and snack bars
• an indoor observation tower in the transmitter (you can't miss it)
• meadows suitable for group picnics
• occasional recreationals extras, including pony rides
• a hill that transforms from a short ski run/lift in the winter, to a wheeled toboggan track in the summer - especially popular with slightly older kids
• hiking trails that extend outwards to many other Carpathian destinations, or simply downhill to the city

Swimming is becoming easier to find, whether in winter or in summer, but sometimes runs to over-crowded in Bratislava during summer holidays and weekends. The following venues are worth a try:

• Indoor facilities are available in hotels and semi-private health clubs, including Hotel Danube downtown. Call to inquire about specific hours, age restrictions and prices, which tend to be somewhat expensive.
• Outdoors, the largest swimming pool complex at present is Rosnicka in the western neighbourhood of Dubravka.
• Beaches are available, though waters tend to be murky. The largest, at Zlate Piesky near the airport, has a couple fancy water slides, and rustic holiday cabins.
• Somewhat nicer beaches are within an hour away by car - ask locals for tips.

Roller-blading has become a popular activity, even in parks and especially along the Danube to the south of the city.

Horseback riding in the English style is offered at several riding schools, which offer one-time lessons tailored to the rider's abilities.

Day trips from Vienna

Bratislava is also an easy day trip from Vienna, by car, bus, train or river.

Bratislava was for centuries a small town nearby the imperial capital of Vienna, and thrived best in the peak period of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It therefore presents an interesting supplement to the Austrian capital. In fact, Bratislava’s old town is so much more quaint that it is sometimes used as a backdrop for movies set in Vienna.

Budget travelers to Vienna

For those who want to spend time in Vienna on a tight budget, Bratislava is an ideal base. You can sleep in a summer dormitory room for under 10 euros per night, eat some decent meals for under 5 euros per day, and commute in little over an hour to most destinations in Vienna.

Bratislava tourist information
Independent tourist guide for Bratislava and further afield.
www.bratislava.info

City of Bratislava
Official web site of the municipality with links to local institutions.
www.bratislava.sk

Chatam Sofer
This website gives details on the recently-opened memorial to Chatam Sofer, a very significant rabbi in Bratislava 200 years ago, as well as on Bratislava's Jewish Culture Museum. The memorial itself is underground, making for a striking and moving experience, featuring the gravesite of Chatam Sofer and over 2O others in this baroque Jewish cemetary.
www.chatamsofer.com

Bratislava hotels
Local internet company specialized in hotel reservations and travel services.
www.bookings.sk